The Royal Rock that Clears The Mind

Written & Experienced by Chloe Hambidge

Holding its ground as one of the holy trinity found amongst Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle, Lion’s Rock is more than just a mound of rubble that glows to life at sunset.

I arrived at the fortress with the aim of getting my steps in and watching a sunset performance over Sigiriya’s lush, thriving jungles. This was my first act of ‘ignorant tourist’, and I thoroughly enjoyed the humbling.

Balmy heat strangled my senses in that exotic and exciting way Asia is renowned for. Between chest warming breaths, as the dust from our footsteps cleared, I was met with my first glimpse of Sigiriya Rock.

Dormant, awaiting, and embellished with endless stairs.

Standing almost lonely against the horizon, the rock is a feat forged by seven years of blood, sweat, and tears, oozing from thousands of manual workers and primitive tools. The elaborate water gardens act as a sweet-smelling distraction from these laborious beginnings, as I was ushered towards the base of this ancient fortress.

I found this stroll down memory lane quite bittersweet. All good things in life require some sort of labour of love, but it left me delusionally daydreaming about the workers reveling amongst the fruits of their labour alongside the king.

Home to a king’s abandoned palace, this structure is imbued with quite the tale. To earn its full story, you must climb an endless array of stairs, stumble through caves brought to life by (mildly) erotic art, and catch your breath beside magnificently colossal lion paws.

The palace was constructed in the 5th century and has been weaving a tapestry of tales ever since. Beginning with a mischievous king whose main pursuit was pleasure amongst his women, before later becoming a sacred site for monks in the 14th century.

Scatterings of monkeys are the only thing promised during this ascent into the clouds; the rest unfolds as a series of surprising events.

Dusted in orange earth that becomes fully imbued with light come dusk, each space propels you further into a corner of the king’s mind: carved pools, platforms designed for personal dancers, and a throne positioned at the very epicentre. Tucked amongst an endless array of staircases, it feels like wandering through an assault course designed for royalty.

The views leave you with nothing but your thoughts. Faced with an almost primordial expanse, I found myself staring at the Knuckles Mountain Range sharpening the sky, whilst verdant forests stretched like a blanket, dwarfing ringlets of lakes.

The beauty of this place lies in its ability to let your thoughts run away from you; the insignificance of our inner musings suddenly feels all-consuming.

How many work emails am I returning home to? (Sorry for the reminder.) Is money or love the true key to success? Will this trip cure the insufferable need to gain more from life?

Big thoughts shrink back into the cobwebs of the mind, making room for the larger-than-life presence that once dominated this rock. I found that strangely comforting.

Gravitating towards anything with a story, I found Sigiriya to be far more than just a leg burner, it’s an escape into history. With twists and turns, this fortress holds stories full of surprise and reveals truths about the humans of 1,500 years ago- a time almost unfathomable to imagine.

It’s a small pilgrimage that brings teachings and tales, whilst rewarding both the mind and body.

I found this newfound silence settling across my consciousness like a reprieve, a small snippet of solace accompanied by a view. Much like the feeling stirred when you stumble upon an explosive sunset, the vibrant colours leaving you awestruck, if only for a moment. Would you welcome the silence, or fall back into the monotonous routine of hunting for distraction?

I highly recommend having a guide and allowing yourself at least half an hour to take in the horizon from every corner.